I haven't had a compressor in the shop for a few months. So we have a look at how the compressor works and salvage good parts to build a new compressor system for the shop.
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I have a pancake compressor that won’t climb over 40psi, what should I check first?
I got an old one from a guy that had rusted a hole in the bottom. I brazed it it’s been going strong for a couple years.
That long tube doesn’t send the pressure to the switch, the switch diaphragm in the middle is connected to tank pressure through the 1/4” NPT nipple at the tank. That tube is part of the unloader that ensures the piston isn’t starting against any pressure. It empties the pipe from the cylinder head valve to the check valve at the tank.
Excellent video… The couple hundred dislikes only proves that there are some serious idiots out there who aren't smart enough to know when they're being given a master class and terrific information. It boggles the mind, as to what they're expecting to hear.
I was an air compressor/pneumatic tool repair tech for neigh-on a decade and I've not heard anyone be able to properly explain their function, outside of the trade (that includes you, my industrial engineering friend, in "the trade" 😆)… But I've known a whole lot who could mess one up in a hurry.
The valves in the pump (depending upon mnfctr) may be circular, disc valves or they may be rectangular "reed valves" that just flex up and down, letting the air flow in through one set, out through another set in the valve plate, located between the head and the piston cylinder body, passing the air through the pump.
The reed valves are regularly breaking as they become brittle after so many heating and cooling cycles so, anytime your compressor suddenly stops building pressure, first thing is pull the head and examine the valves. Circular valves can become carbon fouled and stick/break, as well.
Uummm, those air filters are cheap, you may want to replace that thing… 😆 Not only will you get better air flow, your pump won't work as hard, helping keep the Temps happy. 😀 (I know you know this, just letting people watching this know how important clean pump filters are).
Change the pump oil regularly! There's no oil filter and the rods will seize to the crank!!!
The belt tension should be same as your car, able to turn 90° left/right with about 1" – 1 1/2" total deflection.
The number one thing to keep from frying the capacitors and the motor is DO NOT RUN EXTENTION CORDS! 50' @10ga., max length. If you need to reach farther away to the work, use longer air lines!!! A, it's extra air storage in longer lines and B, it's cheaper to buy air hose than electric hose!! I replaced many motors that should never have gone bad because people kept running compressors on 100+ft. of light gauge extention cord instead of just buying more air hose. Stupid at its finest.
As a major Mr fix-it, certified mechanic, fabricator and all around cheapskate, I'd love to find a way to fix it. Buuut… For that type of compressor, they make reasonably priced replacement tanks all day long.
You're right about the whole pressure vessel thing, even if you rendered any flammable inert, welding a pressure vessel and guaranteeing that there is zero hidden porosity or heat-induced weakness in the repair area is next to impossible. Or at least enough so that it's not worth the risk unless you absolutely had to have the tank and couldn't find a replacement, then you'd have to pull that bung and find a way to insert a piece of backing metal to reinforce it, drill some holes in the area to be welded and through -tack the piece in place, then grind and welding the crack, bonding the tank and reinforcement. Uh, yeah.
Creating an area stronger than the area being repaired is next to impossible. The only way to "cowboy through" would be flood, grind and fill it, X-ray it then over pressure the tank by a few hundred percent and leave it for a loong while to see if it holds. then replace the tank ASAP so it doesn't have a chance to rust through (welding and forgetting it would let just enough time pass for some, poor sap to come in and use it at full pressure and blow himself up).
If all that sounds like a rant of excessive BS, it's because you don't welding pressure vessels… 😆
💯 on the tag out! If there are gentle type customers around we call it conformance failure
“And no one’s the wiser!” Hahahaha
"We do not fuck with pressure vessels" only piece of safety advice from the internet I've ever heeded
Lol love it
Thanks AvE.
Is that all!
Mrs. Jones, let me show you how the piston action works…
Grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain’t! 😂
Well shit no one told me they were bombs, welded mine up a few years back, its in in own compressor house so I guess if it blows I wont find our til my air tools dont work
HVAC guys were loosing their minds until you verbally realized you got them capacitators backwards.
I kown this is way to old, but did AvE use a new vessel or repair the old one? thanks!
I'm no expert but the little black capacitor looked like the start cap to me that's the exact same pair in a control box on a well pump and that's what the start caps look like so you were right in the end when you said you got her wrong😂
One of my first jobs out of high school was welding at Campbell Hausfeld. you were definitely right not to try to repair that. The weakness on those compressor are the heads. I'm not sure how they test them now but the 20-plus years ago I was there we tested them in a "bomb box" They were pressurize to 350 psi. When the tanks fail they always blow the heads off. The larger tanks were Hydro tested. Tanks up to 30 gallons were tested under air pressure. When one of those tanks failed it would shake the whole building. -david