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Had a big splitter myself. Went through the same pains. Name of the game is slot and tang. You gotta cut a slot(s) in your pusher plate and have a tang on your splitter wedge that goes through the plate so that you can weld on both sides instead of just being welded on the face. Breaks every time or after a few times. Also, don't get fancy with the wedge. Just a good old "V" works best for all types of wood. The fancy ones work OK for soft wood that's cut to stove size, but not for mean or stringy hardwoods. Don't mind taking an extra split, that's why you got the cylinder is to swing the splitter for you!!
I'd love me some of them stickers but I imagine shipping to Ireland would be a right ballache.
As for suggestions for the log splitter, find a big burly first nations guy with an axe.
I'm not good at writing in funny ways but if you are putting whole rounds into it a X or Double X pattern to make triangles would work better. With the Crossing point in the middle it would give room for the wood to go as it's being split instead of being jammed in between two plates as they pass through the wood. If you are doing half rounds then a V patten would be best.
The problem with parallel splitting plates is the plate takes up volume and if there is a plate on either side of the wood you are having to compress the wood to go between the plates and really wedging it in there until the full power of the ram is being applied to the plates and the welds.
Taper the blades fat at the bottom,and thin at the top, so the round is not touching the blade edge all at one. This will put more splitting pressure at one point at first. Also make the blade longer front to back so you can get more bead.
Keep in mind with the tapered blades the round will try to hop out at the top so you will have to put a plate above it all to keep the round contained.
You need compressive strength, you're relying on tensile strength to make the cuts. Use a multi wedge approach with 2"round stock welded to a wedge head mounted to a backing plate that is attached to the cylinder
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Your problem is the blades are fixed and the width of the blades causes the wood to be compressed. If you made the outer blades spring loaded so they can move outward as the wood pushes through, then this would fix the problem.
Maybe splay the blades outwards somewhat so the logs don't get wedged in and you only have to overcome the resistance of the cut? It's possible that using some old drills as bootleg hard facing rod would give the cutters a tougher edge too, but it's easy to make suggestions from the other side of a comment section when I won't be the one doing the work. Hope your next iteration is the winner, may your wood be split and fingers remain attached.
Start with a simple x splitter. The issue is dead tree carcass binding. In order to pass through multiple blades you have to angle blades to allow expansion. Take an 8×8 square stock. 3 (0.5) inch verticle blades vertically. If left straight the wood would have to have 1.5 inches compression. Wood has great compression strength. If you angle and stagger blades then you mitigate the compression issue
Angle the cutting blades back so they lean away from the wood… i.e. start the splitting from the bottom and have the tips about 1/2 inch back.
That way the blades won't take the full impact on their whole length.
It may also help to stagger the blades from left to right (or t'other way} 1 to 2 inches so the split wood doesn't get forced to the middle and put extra stress on the center blade.
Have you thought about going the other way. have the dingus bit on the stickey outy thingamadoodle and the backstop just be on the frame?
or in other words place the hammer on the piston and the anvil on the frame ?
Just an idea from an idiot who spends more time on the computer watching videos about making things instead of making things himself, but what about pushing the blade instead of the material, like a cross slaped blade to cut logs into quarters, have a flat steel foot to hold the log with a corresponding hole cut out so the blade could go right through the material to cut the clingons off, and you could make the "bench" or table where the log sits raise and lower so you could account for logs of all sizes
Fingers are to small for splitter needs to be about as long as tall… u made a flexture that flexs to much sink Fingers broke faster… need to beef them up all run them through the I beam is also a plus in strengthen
You've been going about this all wrong. You need to put a few envelopes sideways in the track. If they can take a chunk out of your flesh, they can snap a log right in two!
If you want a multiple wedge, weld up a radial pattern like wheel spokes and make it adjust up and down to center on the log. That way the pieces don't jam bc they can spread apart.
I have a log splitter that is destined for some ill conceived vinyl.
I had a few laughs and a chuckle when I watched the first video know’n damn well that cutting wedge was destined for failure. Remember, keep it simple stupid. Just steal a proven design and hack it together proper wise in the shop. Happy stackin friend!